It
all began
with the rhetoric that had us chasing our tails in
September...."monster swell to consume west coast".
Damn! I haven't started my Christmas shopping yet! ..and if I
blow that off again ...sheeeee. Lets see.. did the all night market thing
last year ...hmmm ..she'll kill me if I try that again but so would missing this
swell if
it lives up to the hype. What to do? Oh the pitfalls of
being an extreme sports addict.
A small group of
madmen were tempted enough to risk it all. In the darkness of
Wednesday morning they met at Santa Monica Airport, loaded up and
left at dawn. All the signs were there as they flew south
hugging the coastline. South Bay, Lunada Bay PV, Seal Beach,
Huntington, Swamis, and San Diego were getting hammered by a sold 20 ft
WNW swell.
(see SURFLINE for SoCAL highlights) Now the West
Coast doesn't see this type of activity very often and to top it
off, they were forecasting a swell of equal stature Christmas
day. So far the trip seemed worth all the sacrifices.
As they crossed the border, the Baja coastline was lit up with most
spots firing all the way to Ensenada. A few passes around Todo
Santos island confirmed that this was truly the swell of the last 5 years.
Flying low near the
Baja coastline provided a spectacular visual appetizer for the main
event - a tow-in
session at the
Bombora.
Normally a trip to Punta San Carlos has travelers dreaming of mega
wind swept peaks & lines. Not this time... glassy conditions
were the order of the day and as they passed over Isla Benito and
Sacramento reef, it was apparent that mother nature had delivered.
When the plane
cleared the Valle de Cirios everyone began screaming at
the view....every
spot
in the San Carlos area was going off. After landing, the group
began rushing to ready the equipment for the first
go out. The first of a series of mishaps occurred when the
better of the two support jet-skis was damaged during the launch.
The second older ski was immediately brought out and the first
team of Mike Botello and Reggie Cury headed for the Bombora. Because of the lack of wind, a
thick sea spray haze hugged the surface like a fog. This made
spotting and photography very challenging. Waves were
breaking several hundred yards outside of the most common spots.
Water photography was to precarious as there were rogue sets. The only way to view the teams was with binoculars. Even the
600mm camera lens was only slightly effective in magnifying the
riders.
After several minutes
of preparation and coordination, first team member Reggie Cury dropped into a 20 ft Bombora face .
With no
apparent difficulties managing the tight duration swells, the team
rode several more 10-20 footers before the ski quit in the impact
zone, stranding the team. The ski pilot in a rather stylized
stoic manner stood erect on the ski waved the universal signal for
help and dove off the ski just before it went over the falls on a
good sized macker, dazzling the cliffside spectators. Both Reggie
and Mike made it to shore unharmed.
Not
so fortunate for the ski.
Due
to a severe side shore current, the now upside down ski rounded the
point and again went over the falls in the chili bowl. Game
over. The rest of the day was dedicated to retrieving the ski
and repairing the other one.
The next day
the swell had dropped to 10ft - to occasional 20ft faces. Although
smaller the surf was still in the challenging zone, all precautions
were implemented to ensure success. The other team of Alex
Haagen and Kevin Trejo hit
the Bombora early as t here were tell tale signs of a wind day. Alex Haagen dropped into a wave on the far right side of the island
and made it all the way to the Bombora, easily making it the ride of
the trip. After several more quick rides, Kevin Trejo hit the
water but the session was all
but over due to the approaching wind line.
Tow-in surfing is
becoming popular at Punta San Carlos with pros and amateurs alike.
There are a
myriad of different conditions in the immediate area and many others
within in the range of most jet skis. Planning and a strict
regimen of procedures are key to an epic go-out, avoiding disasters.
If you are considering towing-in, seek the advice of a trained
professional and spare no expense on your equipment. Remember
-
"Poor tools require
better skills" - Marcel Duchamp
Alex Haagen's bullet
ride across the entire backside length of the island Haagen photo
sequence from the steady hand and keen eye of Kevin Trejo |